1963 Chevy Impala 2 door hard top 350 V8 ZZ4 TH350 9" rear full MSD factory air

1963 Chevrolet Impala Description

I have owned the car for 16 years. Always garage kept, never driven in the winter or in the rain. The odometer is showing “49,900+” miles. I assume that it has gone around past 100,000. I have done the following work/modifications. I have $23,500 in receipts for parts alone (not counting labor), see the picture. The chrome Crager Wheels and redline radial tires have about 2,800 miles on them. The exhaust and exhaust tips have 1,440 miles of use. All other modifications and parts below have 13,500 miles of use since installation.

• GM Performance Parts ZZ4 Crate Engine 350 cubic inches. 355 hp @ 5250 RPM 405 ft lbs @ 3500 RPM. 4 bolt main, 10:1 compression, forged crankshaft, high silicone aluminum pistons, hydraulic roller camshaft, upgraded with ARP fasteners. GM “fastburn” aluminum heads: 58cc combustion chambers with 1.94” intake and 1.50” exhaust ports. Holley dual plane intake, 1/2” carb spacer, & Holly 750 CFM 4 barrel carburetor vacuum secondary’s modified with 50 cc accelerator pump and quick change vacuum secondary spring kit. Complete Holley jet kit included with car. 1969 Camaro/Nova power steering pump. Custom made power steering lines.

• TCI Streetfigher TH350 3 speed automatic transmission with shift kit, 2800rpm stall torque converter. Custom made shift linkage. Billet aluminum transmission pan.

• Urethane engine and transmission mounts.

• MSD Pro Billet distributor, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD 6AL rev limiter box.

• Hedman 1 5/8” to 3” collector ceramic coated headers.

• Flowmaster Super 40 mufflers, dual 3” side exit exhausts w/ stainless steel 4” tips.

• All aluminum radiator with shrouded dual Spaal electric fans rated at 2,600 CFM.

• Brake booster with '69 Vette dual master cylinder, '69 Camaro power front disc brakes, '70 Turino rear power drums drilled for Chevy bolt pattern, custom lines.

• Replacement gas tank and hardware, custom made fuel lines.

• Moser Engineering 9” Ford rear end, ‘70 Ford Bronco center section with 3.50 posi-traction gears and 31 spline axels.

• Custom heavy duty 2 piece drive shaft with billet carrier bearing mount & urethane bushing

• All suspension components have urethane bushings, boxed rear trailing arms with 1/8” thick steel plate, Hotckiss adjustable panhard rod, and gas shocks.

• Replaced all ball joints and tie rods and tie rod ends.

• Replaced engine and headlight wiring harnesses and electrical components, horn relay.

• Replaced heater core.

• 15”x7” Crager Eliminator 500 chrome wheels with Redline radial tires. Full size spare redline radial tire on a Chevy Ralleye wheel.

• Reproduction front bumper with filler panel with new bumper bolts and hardware, reproduction hood lip trim, reproduction antennas. NOS upper and lower eyebrow moldings.

• All factory air conditioning parts for the car (compressor and brackets not installed but go with the car). Other parts that go with the car but are not on the car include factory front bumper and grill guard, extra upper control arm boxed with 1/8” plate with urethane bushings installed, extra hood and front bumper trim, fire wall insulation, original fasteners. Original bumper jack. Extra new tail shaft housing for TH350. Extra chrome valve covers and chrome transmission pan. Original Optikleen bottle. Manual choke cable. Extra factory tail light bezel. Random extra parts.

• Added tachometer, oil pressure, voltage, and water temperature gauges.

• Installed new lap belts front and rear.

• Reproduction “Impala” rubber floor mats front and rear. Reproduction horn rim.

• Re-keyed doors, trunk, and glove box with reproduction keys and new lock cylinders. 2 sets of keys.

• Clean Pennsylvania title.

Reliable driver. I regulatory drive it to events 100+ miles from home.Interior is complete, no missing parts. No rips, tares, or stains on the seats. All the stainless trim around the windows is in nice shape. The car has solid floors and trunk, except for one poor quality floor pan repair in the passenger side foot well. I was told by guy that sold the car to me that the paint and interior was done by a previous owner. He had the car for 12 years, I have it for 16 years, so that was at least 28 years ago. The paint has a great shine to it as its done in lacquer.

Now for the problem areas. The paint is bubbling on the lower part of the quarters, sills, lower front fenders, rear bumper filler panel. There is a rust spot on the driver side sill at the corner of the sill plate. Some chips on the hood and doors, paint blister on the trunk lid, some crazing on part of the hood. Body crack at base of C pillar on driver side. Oil drip at rear of the engine, transmission fluid drip at front of TH350. The dash clock and the factory AM radio do not work. The headliner is starting to get loose above driver side window. There are rust holes under the lip of the hood and trunk lids. There is one poorly done floor panel patch in the driver side foot well. The weather stripping is dry and cracked. Factory A/C is not working, all parts either are on the car or come with the car.

I can email more high resolution pictures, including problem areas, if you contact me with your email address. The car is being sold where is, as is, with no warrantees stated or implied. The car is available for inspection during the time that the auction is running by appointment only. Contact me to set up an appointment. I recommend all bidders come to view the car in person if possible. Note, I will not take the car out of the garage for a test drive if it is raining or the roads are wet! If you want to talk about the car on the phone, send me your name, phone number, and a good time to call and I will contact you.

No bidders with less than 10 positive feedbacks or a rating lower than 99%. United States bidders only. If you do not meet these requirements, YOUR BID WILL BE CANCELED. Make sure you have the financing in place before you bid. Make sure your wife knows you are buying an antique car before you bid. Make sure your husband really wants a 1963 Impala to tinker with before you bid. Make sure you have a way to pick up the car from zip code 18222 before you bid. Make sure you have insurance lined up before you bid so that you can activate it as soon as you pay for the car. My insurance will be canceled as soon as payment in full clears. Follow the rules, don't waste your time or mine.

Payment: $500 non refundable down payment is due through Paypal within 24 hours of the end of the auction.If you don't follow through with the purchase, you lose your $500. The remainder of winning bid needs to be sent to me via a bank to bank wire transfer within 7 days of the auction ending. No cash, no bank checks, no personal checks, no credit cards. If you do not complete the purchase within 7 days of the end of the auction you lose your $500 and the car goes back up for sale. When your payment of the balance clears my bank, I will overnight you the signed and notarized PA title. The car must be picked up from my property within 14 days of the end of the auction. I am available from 7 am to 10 pm 7 days a week for you or your auto shipper to pick the car up. I am not responsible for what happens to the car if you don't pick it up withing 14 days of the end of auction. I will have it towed to a storage lot at your expense. If you can't meet these requirements, then do not buy my car.

In summary:

• $500 payment through Paypal due withing 24 hours of the end of auction. If you don't pay, the car goes up for sale again and you get negative feedback.
  
• Remainder of balance to be sent to me via bank to bank wire transfer within 7 days of the end of auction. Failure to do so results in your loss of $500 deposit and the car goes up for sale again. You also get negative feedback.
• After payment is received and cleared by the bank, you have 14 days from the end of auction to pick it up or have an auto transporter pick it up. If you do not do this, you get negative feedback and the car will be towed to an auto storage yard at your expense.
  

I will not end the auction early. If you can meet all the requirements and want the car, go ahead and bid.