Dodge Challenger RT Clone car w shakerhood 440 (496 stroker) big block auto 727

1970 Dodge Challenger R/T clone Description

1970 Dodge Challenger with 496 stroker motor NOTE: This is a Clone car I have owned this car for around 20 years now.

-Built and Restored

-Hensley Racing Blueprinted Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum heads customized and with phase 1 port and polish

-Hensley Racing 496 Stroker Kit

-M1 dual plane intake ported and polished by Hensley Racing

-Complete transmission rebuild in 2007 ($2500 performance build by A&A Transmission)

-Turbo Action torque convertor

-Mancini Racing built 8 ¾ rear end with 4:10 gears

-Speedometer rebuilt using Year One service (repaired and redid face)

-Ground up Restoration done in 2003 and not driven much since. Did a few car shows now just drive it to work once or twice a year.

-Comes from smoke free home

-Front manual Disc Brakes

-Holley double pumper 850 cfm

-Light weight high torque starter from Hensley racing ($190)

-Ross Forged Aluminum alloy pistons

-Mopar Performance ignition system with Rev Limiter

-Comp Cams hydraulic camshaft

-2 K&N filters (k&n Xtreme)

-Race Wires, Blaster 2 coil, performance cap and rotor (think accel)

-New Outer Door handle

-New $215 car cover from California Car Cover Co.

-Trans Mount from Summit

-Rebuilt Hood Hinges

-Complete Shaker hood setup

-Gas Tank Renu

-Aluminum water pump (don’t remember if whole thing or just housing is aluminum)

-Installed new bumper bolts, LH Park Lens, weather stripping

-Pinion Snubber

-15 x 8 on back and 15 x 7 on front magnum 500 rims (new bf goodrich tires with less than 150 miles and new mickey thompson et streets on back with same mileage. These have only been used on street as car only went to track one time after built).

-Fluidampr damper (top of line harmonic balancer)

-Frame has been professionaly tied together with steel or iron tubing.

-Schumacker Creative Services engine strap

-Mopar Super Stock Springs

-Trans Pak and Trans Cooler with Dust Cover for Trans

-Hi-Note horn from year one

-New Door Hinge Pin and Bushing Kit, Body Bumpers, Steel Hood Pins and 18” cables, ¾” rear swaybar, 1” front swaybar. Instrument voltage regulator, hood molding (all from year one)

-Milodon oil pump and deep pan

-new washer reservoir, glove box, and wheel opening moldings from Hardens muscle car world.

-Reprinted original looking service manual from year one shows how challenger is built, electrical diagrams, tips, engine, etc.

-Flowmaster Mufflers 40 Series

-Replaced fuel sending unit

-many new emblems, knobs and such

-replaced interior panels (all white)

-Painted using IMRON paint with Clear (stripe is also painted on)

-TTI CPPA Big Block Headers with 2” primaries and 3 ½” collectors

-3” stainless steel exhaust tips

-3” stainless steel mandrel bent exhaust with H pipe

-Custom built driveshaft with slip using big Chrysler joints. Slip and weld yokes balanced.

-Carter hemi fuel pump

-Green axle bearings

-Stocker Star shocks with adjusting knobs part #HAL-TR501 from summit racing $320 with less than 150 miles on them (note: you can adjust these shocks just by turning a knob, no wrenches needed)

-new slapstick handle

-Clutch Fan

I do not believe the 23,820to be theoriginal millage on this car as dash has been swapped out for a rallye dash and gages. It is in excellent shape as the body shop said when I had it redone. They only had to replace the spot behind the rear window underneath where you can see. A popular spot for rain water toretain on old cars.

very straight car with very nice paint. I put blue lightbars in the scoops of the shaker but they are in the top so cannot be seen in daylight if they are turned off. separate toggle switch controls those. Have tried to make this look original or at least like they would have done it back then. has headers and I did have a modern electronic ignition put on it. Car drives well but if you plan on a lot of freeway driving will want to change the gears. Like all motors of this size it is cold blooded but once it warms up you can actually just reach in and turn the ignition on without touching the gas (am told that is very unusual for motors this size that are built like this).

PAYMENT: deposit through paypal and then the rest after buyer sees car. I will accept a personal or cashiers/bank check but the car and title will stay here for a few weeks while it clears until bank guarantees me it is ok to let go. If you want it the day you show up then wire transfer is best. AFTER verifying the car is exactly what you want we can go to the bank and do the wire transfer right there. I would bring the title with me and sign it over while at bank with you and then we can come back to load up car and items that can go with it if you want them.