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1918 Model T Ford, No Reserve and parts and tools

  • Price: Ask a price!
  • Location: Mishawaka, Indiana, United States
  • Make: Ford
  • Model: Model T
  • Year: 1918
  • Mileage: 200,000
  • VIN: 5745142359
  • Color: red
  • Engine size: 4 cyl Oct 1917
  • Fuel: Gasoline
  • Drive type: original ford
  • Vehicle Title: Clear

1918 Ford Model T Description

1918 Ford Model T Engine number 1,980,096 built in October 1917 over a year before the end of World War 1 Note, radiator and front hood removed not in place in pictures and video

1918 Model T Ford for sale - YouTube

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I have been having fun fixing and driving Model T and Model A cars for years. I switched to these cars from 1940 and 1950 era cars do to the simplicity and ease of repairs and the low cost availability of repair parts. A PLUS is all the support from the Model T Ford Club of America, the tours together and fun. This will be a good first inexpensive car to get started on. Watch one of my old YouTube videos on inspecting a Model T before buying. I also have some videos on how to start and drive the Model T ( under name kriegel) In summary I bought this as one of three Model T's years ago from an estate. It has been sitting in storage in my aircraft hanger for years . I just do not have the health and time to work on it so it can go to a new home. Pictures show I did have it sanded primed and a quick red paint job done least year so my Wife could use it as a Christmas display The good. The wood artillery wheels are every good wood. I see very few or no weather cracks or deterioration to the wood Tires have deep tread steering play is tight recovered seats vinyl good has good spark on new rebuilt coils


From the pictures you can see the intake, carb, exhaust manifold and radiator pipe and hood support are removed for working on the engine ( all included ) Picture put on MTFCA forum. They the experts say it has a cut off Touring body vs the roadster body. Many of these cars were repaired put together from many models. Any parts from one Model T fit another over the years 1908 to 1927 ! so there are plenty of used parts


What needs to be done. This engine, an early 1917 had low compression 20 PSI so it would barley run. You need for top shape 50-55 PSI To do this you remove the pistons, hone the cylinders, and fit new piston rings being careful to fit a minimum ring gap Then do a valve lap. I am including the Ford easy original reprint repair manual which is a step by step guide on repairing the entire car Also a new set of rings, 4 rebuilt coils tested for proper 1.3 am, new plug wires, extra plugs, spare tire and wheel Ford ( original?) tire jack some period tools, This car will be a fun car to learn to fix and drive. It is not a show car. It is missing the door and convertible top and headlight buckets. It being an early model has no starter or generator. It can therefore be run off a 12 volt or 6 volt battery. (prior owner had battery in the trunk connected to a wire clip from the battery to ignition. Note this has the OLD coil box!) I am including a modem era 12 volt aaoogh horn You can put in a kit to charge the battery from the magneto ( Fords have large magnets on the flywheel. They produce AC current to run the car after you start it on the battery to power the 4 coils) I can transport it within 50 miles

I had removed the head and number one piston to check the cylinder It measured standard. I always buy the over sized piston rings ( included unopened) so I can file them down to a custom minimum ring gap to get the highest compression. Included if you do not already own them is the piston honing tool, and ring installation tool I suggest of you have never owned a Model T go to MTFCA Model T Ford Club of America web site go to the forum section to see all the help everyone gives each other to support the hobby Also google MTFCA Model T Ford piston ring gap settings to see examples of detailed technical info available


Defects: missing head light buckets, windshield appears to be non safety glass so it needs to be replaced for safety and to go on tours left front tire, I scraped it getting on trailer, small quarter sized piece of side wall torn half way, body when I had it primed, I noticed some areas of prior fiberglass repair for rust along the bottom of the body sill and on the right cowl below the windshield and on the left rear fender I have pictures with my finger pointing to them . There is an old body fender patch More minor it is a solid but not show body

Note I can not find the title. I will get a Police report and attempt to get a title from Indiana If not will be sold with bill of sale and Police non theft inspection NOTE Monday I should be able to get a clear title.

My guarantee: If you buy it, come inspect it yourself or have someone else inspect it independent before pick up. If there are defects I did not see, I will either reduce the agreed on price or refund of course all funds I want you to find you got a better car than described If you need a title and I do not have one of course an immediate refund


Note I have this for sale listed locally so if it sells I will delete listing If you want it just email a price. if agreeable I will make it a buy it now feature for you to click on

Note mileage of 99999999 made up as these cars have no odometer !!!!