1962 Ford F-250 4x4 Rare 262 Engine Runs Good!

1962 Ford F-250 Description

1962 Ford F250 • Runs good • 4 speed manual transmission • Working low and high range 4x4 with stock over-springs in back •
I believe this truck has a rare 262 inline 6 cyl Engine. Why do I think so? From a forum on the web I get:

"The engine code is the 4th digit of the VIN: B = 262 1V I-6 / J = 223 1V I-6"
The VIN for this truck is F26BR270125

Quote: For the 223 block casting numbers on the left lower ended in CTAE 5016 and others similar.
The 262 block casting always ended in xxTE xxxx etc - TE being Truck Engine.
See the image of the engine casting, it is C2TE-6015-A
Truck has a textured metal flat bed with removable metal sides and folding livestock extensions • Includes all five original rims (plus two rims on it are modern now) •
Clean title in hand • Located in SE Utah •
Main issues: synchro is out between second and third gear. This requires one to shift from second to forth and then to third (syncro between forth and third is working). This work around has been easy enough for me to get used to. The windshield is cracked but not in normal line of sight from driver seat. Tires are worn and mismatched and cause some wheel shake at certain speeds. I will let the photos speak of the body dents. Some rust on steps inside doors can be seen photos as well. Driver window operates with difficulty (you have to work it back and forth). I lubed it one time and it seem to help. Passenger window I just keep up, I think it has fallen off the track before.
I bought this truck in 2004. It had been garaged for many years. A father and son had rebuilt the engine with great care. The son was selling the house and was letting it go. I have use it a few times a year to get fire wood or take a load the dump. Due to change in circumstance I now need a more modern work truck. I have professional 4x4 experience and yet I have never been in a burly 4x4 quite like this one. It feels willing to climb just about anything. I truly hate to see it go.
More information:
Five years ago I flushed the radiator (took it out and did a good job). Changed rear and front differential, and transfer case oil, and toped off front wheels with gear oil. The front axel is strange with massive ball sockets at the wheels. These slowly leak gear oil, and I am told this is typical. See new image of this. Brake master is holding fluid, and has for last few years, but it used to leak at one or more slave cylinder. Master cylinder seems OK. Brakes are weak compared to modern brakes, and this was typical for the era, but it also possible (likely) that one or all brake pads are soaked with brake oil on this rig and this might account for weak feel. They are not spongy, but pulse a bit at times; I think this is due to a modern rim in the front warping one of the rotors, this problem began when I put a modern rim on the passenger side.
All indicator lights work on dash, as does night illumination on gauge. The left turn signal indicator is white, was it originally green, right is green. Charging system is working. Battery is old but good because I keep it charged on solar power.
All Running lights work, Headlights work. Driver side brake light and turn signal are out in rear. Both turn signals work in front, and passenger turn signal works in rear. All other lights are operational. Horn is not working. Windshield wipers work but desperately need new blades. Heater is working, fan is working.
A few years ago I started to have to adjust the choke to keep it running while it warms up. I checked the float, and it not fuel-logged: it is still holding air. I don't know what is wrong. I hear these one-barrel carburetors are kind of a pain. Once it warms up it seems to run ok, it just stumbles a bit if it is not in the right place.
I have a video of a test drive, just ask for it. I go through the gears and go over 50 mph up a slight grade.
The deposit is non-refundable. Located in the Moab Utah area.