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1985 4x4 Ford Bronco II SUV MT 2.8L V-6

  • Location: Avondale Estates, Georgia, United States
  • Condition: Used
  • Make: Ford
  • Model: Bronco II
  • Trim: xl
  • Year: 1985
  • Mileage: 165047
  • VIN: 1FMBU14S3FUB09919
  • Color: Blue
  • Engine size: 2.8L V-6
  • Number of cylinders: 6
  • Fuel: Gasoline
  • Transmission: Manual
  • Drive type: 4WD
  • Interior color: Tan
  • Drive side: Left-hand driveHi, I have a 1985 Ford Bronco 2 4W
  • Options: 4-Wheel Drive
  • Vehicle Title: Clear

1985 Ford Bronco II xl Description

Hi,
I have a 1985 Ford Bronco 2 4WD SUV (seats 4 - can seat 5 with Ranger split bench seat)
Manual transmission
manual transfer case
manual hubs
2.8L V-6
no A/C - heat only

No Title - bill of sale only - in Georgia a title is not needed before 1986 and they will not issue one unless you have one already in your name.

I wrote what is on the speedometer for miles - it is not accurate since it was a replacement from the former owner.

It is probably a lot less less since the engine is in too nice of shape and I know what he told me, BUT, I did not see the old speedometer. I imagine a Carfax would bring all the miles up. I never cared if it had a title because it ran.

I bought this a few years ago, took it home on a trailer, and have been restoring it in my spare time. I drive it every once in a while if I have to go a long distance, otherwise just to pick up parts when my other vehicle is down. Driven only 285 miles this past year.

All new brake system except for the hard lines and parking brake cables.
Newer radiator, fan, etc.
Converted from computer control to points, so it has a new carbureto, new distributor, new plugs, new coil, new wiring, new relays, etc.
Newer battery at the time.
Tires are practically brand new.
Basically it needs body work. It has rust problems. The worse is the floor seam on the passenger side, as pictured.
It smokes a bit because it needs valve seals I guess. I did not know this was a common thing on 2.8L until after I had adjusted the valves and put new valve cover gaskets on, so, I have just let it be since I hardly drive it and have driven it less then 2,000 miles in the past 3 years.
Compression Test: 2016-03-03
done cold after adjusting valves
#1 - 160
#2 - 143
#3 - 125
#4 - 145
#5 - 145
#6 - 140
The driver's door is a 1990 I fitted on there (other one was trashed) since I had a spare 1990 Bronco 2 for parts. It functions, but, needs a 1983-1988 Bronco2 or Ranger door, 1989-1990 doors are slightly different, though they are not suppose to be. It needs the rubber around the window, it simple needs to be replaced with a 84-88 Bronco II or Ranger door. It keeps the water out and locks is all I cared about.
I have most of the interior, I painted it black, it was taken out so I could work on the floor. I have newer replacement seats for the back. The seats in the front were taken from an Aerostar XLT.
Needs a few small things mechanically (horn hooked up from installing Grant Steering wheel, has new horn button, etc.), dash Temp, gas tank, and oil gauge stopped working, probably a ground or fuse from probing the steering column to find the wire to the horn relay. What it really needs is body work.
I have a James Duff blue poly body mount kit that I never installed that is included. I have a Haynes repair manual for the Bronco 2.
I have a front push/grill guard for it. Basically you just drill holes and install it over the front bumper. Though if it was me, I would remove the bumper and custom install it over the frame and extend it so it extends in front of the tires. I did not make it, came from another project, it is made from 1/4" steel and it what looks like black pipe.
I have a build sheet of most of the stuff that was done along with part numbers and usually dates. I have the sales slips somewhere ...
If you buy the Bronco II and want a spare engine, I have a 2.8L that was rebuilt about 2013 that has just been gathering dust in my garage I would sell at a very reasonable price. It was tested in an Alfa Romeo and then pulled. Needs a carb and distributor since they are on the B2. The specs from that one:
Ign. Timing: -10 BTDC
Engine compression:
#1 185 psi
#2 175 psi
#3 162 psi
#4 185 psi
#5 180 psi
#6 175 psi
I never put it in since the stock engine runs okay.
You do not need a title for anything under a 1986 to register a vehicle. It is currently insured, registered, and I drive it once in a while.

I put a 2" cherry bomb muffler on the B2 about 2 weeks ago. I have a new tail pipe to go with the vehicle if want or need it.
Comes with a small floor jack. IF you want them, I do have a bunch of parts to go with it such as some NIB shocks (for an Explorer - they will fit the B2 with a tweak), side mirrors, spare rear quarter glass both sides (I just never replaced the metal since it does not leak). I have a set of EB rear seats for the back OR a bolt down rear bench with mounting brackets for the back with seat belts from a SUV - the stock rear seats were too dirty to reuse. Backs pictured folded down.
Rear hatch pistons, the hatch ones are okay, it is missing the ones for the flip up glass. I do have some laying around, from Aerostars/Explorers (I was a Ford mechanic - I buy and fix Fords up and then sell them). Basically I have a lot of spare parts to go with the vehicle if you want them. I just never got around to fixing up the vehicle as planned and only drove it 285 miles in a year.
These Bronco IIs do get 21+ MPG highway. This should get more, but, I never really drove it enough to find out.
To answer a question, yes, I could tow it back for you IF you met me at my house AND your state honors my GA CCW permit. It would cost .55 a mile (my beast gets 6-7 MPG) so a 200 mile round trip would be $110 (200x.55=$110). I no longer have my equipment trailer, but, I do have one of those Harbor Freight tow bars and I never installed the brackets, so, I could use that. Though I prefer to use a tow dolly from UHAUL. If you wanted to tow it back using your own truck, I would just throw the tow bar in for free and attach the brackets to the B2, it can be safely flat towed being a manual transmission with manual hubs.

If you want a copy of the build sheet (in .PDF format) just send me your e-mail address. It really is too much to post every part I have replaced, in the listing, and the various tune up specs used and tried.

Being sold as is where is - but - you can drive it home if out of state. With BIN payment is due immediately via PayPal. If you are NOT using Uship and are picking this up in person, then bring cash and I will refund the PayPal while you are here. That will show up on your phone immediately, I have done that in the past.
This is insured with full comp including glass breakage until Feb 15 which is when I have to renew, so, if you wanted to leave it here until Feb 14th to arrange shipment by USHIP that would be okay.

For sale locally, so, if you want it, buy it, it will be sold one way or another within the next day or so.
Thank you for looking !
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