1973 Plymouth TRUE Roadrunner, Torred Red, tons of new parts, lots of pictures

1973 Plymouth Road Runner Description

Please read the whole description, so you know what you are getting. I also STRONGLY advise you to come look in person, as I am a cabinetmaker, not a mechanic. Also, you might be turned off by my honest description, but truthfully I do not need your money enough to become a liar to get it. And remember, pictures always look better than that seen in person.........
This is a true 1973 Roadrunner, not a clone. Purchased over 10 years ago, work has slowly been progressing over the years, fitting it around 3 children's college bills, the poor economy over and over again ( I am a self employed ), the death of my mechanic friend, and now lastly I must sell due to health issues.
This car came from the factory with a 400 Magnum, but when I bought it, it had a 78 truck engine, 400 cu. in., which was just a smokey pig of an engine. Remembering what happened to the cars and engines after 71/72 when I was young, with the emissions restrictions, I found and purchased a used E 440, and sent it out to Maund Motorworks for complete rebuilding.Bottom end:They block spray cabinet cleaned it, magnaflux tested, and bored .030 over. New cam bearings, brass freeze plugs, stock steel crank cut .010/.010, Trimetal rod and main bearings. Factory LY connecting rods, reconditioned Keith Black KB237 pistons, cast rings for street use., Mellug M63 oil pump.Top end:Cast iron 906 heads, re-surfaced and magnafluxed, valve job performed with new seals. Stock valve size. Stock non-adjustable rocker and push rod assemblies. Edelbrock aluminium 4bbl intake manifold, Summit flat tappet hydraulic cam and lifter kit, # SUM-6401, advertised duration 282/293 .465/488 lift, 109 center-line 2000-5500 RPM, SA double roller timing set. and new big Holly 4 barrel. At that time I also had put in a Hughes torque converter, # 37 rh 24sp 4po 2.5k. When the engine was out, my friend replaced all the front end bushings, the brake booster, cleaned and coated the gas tank, new battery, and shocks, air shocks in the rear.
Before I bought the car, I went over it with a magnet looking for bondo, and could find none. There is a tiny bit of rust at the bottom of the rear window, paint is good, but not excellent. It has always been garaged. This car is extremely clean and straight, and rust free, a shallow dent on the passenger side door. I have the trunk loaded with spare parts, but the bottom is solid
The mileage listed on the odometer is about 15,000,I have no idea as to what it actually is.
So, like every other car advertised for sale, everything seems perfect. Here is the truth. This car has sat in my garage for about 10 years, and it turns out that while it is better than sitting outside, it is not a good thing. I have done what I could afford to do when I could afford it, but now I have realized I will never finish it to my satisfaction.
I recently had it towed to a performance shop, they started it, new Battery, set the timing although it still needs to be fussed with, brakes were cleaned and adjusted, fixed a leaking fuel line, a new carb gasket, driver wheel cylinder.
It needs, according to them, a passenger side motor mount, which my friend forgot to install, a transmission moun, and upper control arms. While flat bedding it home, the rear brake line developed a leak, so only the front brakes function correctly. I will not release this car to anyone without a trailer or a flat bed, I do not feel it is safe to drive until the rear brakes are fixed.
I have both the clear title, and the New York Sate transferable registration.
I also have a spare transmission, and a complete black interior, with new dash pad, new headliner, new year one seat covers, ETC, available depending what the final selling price is

Now some numbers,Fender tag:
N51 N76 N85 R11 END
037 J52 M21 M26 N41 N42
JY3 U 28 B41 C16 C56
JY3 D6YA JY6 817 076950
E68 D34 RM21 POR 124437

V.I.N. # RM21P3R124487
If the reserve is met, you get everything for the interior included, otherwise, you can either keep the gold interior, or buy the pieces for about $3000 more yourself if you can still find them. Please ask questions ahead of time, I just want a clean and uncomplicated sale. You can contact me at cgautowood if you hate typing as much as I do.