1969 Porsche 911 T

1969 Porsche 911 Description

1969 Porsche 911 T

I have decided to let my 12 year project car go. The reason is simple: I never drive her and I can't imagine that I ever will. She begs to be driven. I have well over $60K invested with hundreds of man-hours in labor. I am not desperate to sell. I've just arrived at a point where I realized that someone else would be a better owner and actually drive her.

A brief history. I bought this car as a complete project without a drive-train in 2003. Yes, his is not a matching-numbers car; I wish it was too. This was a blue plate California car which had been garaged for 20 years when found in 2003. The previous owner apparently experienced engine problems and brought her in for repair. At some point, he PO abandoned the car. The shop owner misplaced or sold the engine and gearbox. Perhaps a very resourceful new owner can track it down. I have some paperwork (minimal) from the PO to start the hunt. You could also pepper the Porsche forums and get lucky.

I have a 3 ring binder full of receipts, he original license plate from CA 1983 and a couple of other things.Sadly, o tool kit or jack.

Why did I buy this car you ask? Because it had zero evidence of any collision or rust and I loved the color. Also, n 2003, his was a $4250 purchase ☺

I do NOT have the COA. I found that it was not really worth the >$100 price to find out that I don't have the original motor. Of course, ne can be obtained very easily.
Paint and Body The original paint was faded and beyond saving. In 2011, sent the car to GK Restorations in Pensacola Florida for paint, ody, eadliner, lass and seals. They used BASF Glasurit single-stage paint with the precise chromatic formula of the original. This paint is $700 per gallon. Please understand folks, ost of the restorations you see use a cheap base-clear PPG (or worse) to achieve an original 'look'. This paint is exactly what Porsche used, et with the benefit of 45 years of technological improvements. This paint stuns when seen. They only do concours work at GK. If requested, have over 1000 pictures of this work being done. It will shock you to know that this work was >$30,000! Yes, hat's too much, ut the finished product is really quite stunning. It is important to note here that this was not a body-off restoration. I wanted the body panels left intact with the original Porsche fasteners and their factory alignments. The car has spent every resting minute since completion in my garage under a fitted Porsche dust cover. Motor I put together an engine with some of the best parts of the early long hoods.

• 7R Case
• 2.2L Heads, am towers
• 2.2E pistons
• 2.4 Crank & Rods
• 3.0L oil pump
• Mechanical tensioners
• 2.2E cams
• Upgraded to a 1969 E oil tank. Identical to the 69T but with the sending unit!

The motor parts were sent to Henry at Supertech performance for long block assembly. I have receipts and photographic evidence, f course. The motor was built to their high standards. It amounts to a very nice, ut street-mild, igh compression motor without the problems associated with attempting 300hp from the same core.

Work completed @ Supertech

• New Porsche rockers
• New Porsche valves
• New, erformance valve springs
• Case Saver studs (might have been Time Certs, an't remember)
• Crank, alanced, agnafluxed, tc
• Rods sized, tc
• ARP rod bolts
• Oil bypass mod
• Viton seals
• Turbo lower valve covers
• New oil lines, tc, tc...

Gearbox The gearbox is from a 1970 911T. This is a two year only transmission but it does feature the desirable race-inspired shift pattern with 1st at your hip and second up and center. The transmission shifts and runs smoothly. Makes a little whine in 3rd. Always used the Swepco gear oil Pelican recommends. Up to you if you want to replace it with a 901. I don't think it's necessary. Fuel System I had a pair of Webers and had them rebuilt, ut ultimately grew tired of fussing with the still-leaking throttle shafts. So, ordered a pair of 40mm PMO's from Richard at PMO. Motor electronics In the engine bay, he original electronics were essentially missing. So, went with a 1970 911T CDI, 4 pin setup. Also bought a very nice 2.4E Bosch distro. Runs flawlessly. I had it Dyno'd at 190hp, ut I cannot find that sheet anywhere, o consider this just an estimate. It's thrilling to drive, ery fast and much faster than the original spec 2.2T. Interior The interior was mostly dried out. Not rotten, ut very dry. The dash was cracked. In the past 12 years I have purchased NOS parts where possible, ncluding

• NOS Porsche Dash with correct dash speaker grille (not cheap)
• NOS passenger door handle
• new wooden driver floorboard.. gorgeous!
• Pedal cluster rebuild with brass bushings
• Super nice driver and passenger door arm rests (only a hint of ubiquitous warping in the passenger side around the handle)
• Original Blaupunkt radio, orking, ith AUX plugin
Original seat belts, point up front
• Original coat hooks (don't laugh, ot easy to find!)
• Original sun visors. Nice shape, ut 46 years old. Impossible to find
• New, orrect basketweave dash covering
• New Perlon carpet kit
• Window guts restored, olls smoothly as when new
• New window seals, elt rubber, ll of it..
• New Headliner
• New German vinyl everywhere where old vinyl was, xcept driver garnish rail
• New rear parcel shelf
• New rear vinyl side panels
• Expensive sound deadening installed before carpet
• Gauges
  • Have all the original 68-marked gauges
  • Tach, peedo and Clock sent to North Hollywood Speedo for restoration ($1100)
  • Bought later (early 70's) 911S oil & temp gauges for the left two slots. Also sent to NHS
  • The original temp & oil gauges are in my possession, ncluded and un-restored
  • Oil tank sender and all other features work, ncluding the lighter
  • Note: The tach works, ut I think there is a ground issue. Assume this will not be fixed but IS fixable if desired
• All interior lights are original with new bulbs, ll work INCLUDING tiny radio light
• original flocked glove box in nice shape, ew switch, hree-position light switch works!
• NOS radio antenna.. mint and works
• Original to car, o tears, asketweave door panels - very nice!
• Nice, OS window cranks
• Front map pockets nice, riginal to car
• Rear map pockets... not so nice, riginal to car. Need to be replaced at some point
• Correct and original front and rear seats. Great shape and very presentable. However, ou might want to recover them at some point.

Body and Wheels The body was 99.7305% rust free. I found, nd left, ne small hole in the front pan near the passenger battery. This is not structural damage, ut you may choose to 'do something' about it. Before the repaint, spot-blasted it, OR15'd it, epainted and let it stand; more a badge of honesty than a token of laziness. All of these cars experienced some rust unless they were never driven. There was a small bit of rust uncovered at the bottom of the driver door. This was not eaten through but I had it cut out and welded at GK just in case. No filler used anywhere on this car. Its all steel, poxy primer and paint. The front driver headlight bucket was replaced because the headlight tabs rusted a smidgen too far for me. Although, OT rotted out at the bottom like all the other cars I've seen. The new bucket was properly welded in, nd the tabs tapped to the correct metric thread. I have yet to find a cleaner example.
The original sugar scoop headlights are nice, ut most people hate them for some reason. They are correct for this car. You can always pop in the euro H4's. Other goodies

• The 15x6 FUCHS are original, ut, he 1970's type with the larger inserts. They present well, ut are not mint. I would say 9/10. I only have 4. I also have 4 early steel wheels with incorrect but good tires. I can throw those in for the new owner.
• The tires are brand new Vredesteins in the correct size and tread for this year
• Exquisite original, . Germany marked side mirror. Impossible to upgrade
• Super nice original outer door handles, riginal to car and correct to 1969. However, he passenger is keyed differently. I have both keys. Impossible to upgrade
• Nice bumper overriders. I have the originals (bad shape) with the rubber inserts. These are nicer from a 68 (I believe) and present well. All new mounting hardware from Sierra Madre
• All new seals everywhere...
• Bumpers, alence, -bar covers and fog light covers are original, ainted and mint
• Wiper system
  • New VDO pump
  • New correct, lear lines from Stoddard
  • Original bottle
  • New squirters, ew check valves
  • SYSTEM WORKS !
• Cad plated fuel filler cap, ew cork gasket
• Front luggage compartment NOT repainted, ot needed
• New gas shocks for hood
• New perlon carpet
• Blower dismantled, leaned and works perfectly, ew Porsche heater hoses all around
• Fuel tank removed, leaned, ined, ealed, ainted, ew sponge mounts, erfect with no leaks or dents.

Suspension and Brakes The original Koni struts were replaced with 79 SC Bilstein struts and spindle assembly. This affords much better braking and parts are easier to find.
Other goodies

• New ball joints
• New 'Turbo' tie rods
• New Brake lines all around - 100% new everywhere
• New master cylinder
• 79 SC adjustable spring plates in rear
• New T-Bars all around
• Bilstein shocks and strut inserts
• Rear brakes original
• Elephant monoballs on mint, epainted banana arms
• New Elephant Front Sway bars - MINT
• A-Arms have new grease-able bushings with leveling kit - EXPEN$IVE!

I have probably left another 100 new parts out. Essentially, his is a new car. Just about everything has been addressed. However, ou need to know that not everything is perfect.

• Seats are 7/10, ine but not going to win any awards
• Driver garnish rail OK, ut tired, eeds to be recovered
• Tach needle does not bounce, t was restored, orks, ut is not accurate. Probably a bad ground
• Front luggage compartment and smuggler's box never painted. Didn't need it, ut you might want to address if you want perfection up there
• The front hood is not perfectly aligned. When they put it back on, t's over to the right about 1-2mm, o the gap is off. I can attempt to loosen the screws and nudge it over, ut I'd rather not, o I am telling you here. It's the original hood with an alignment problem
• I have a not-so-great cheapo fuel pump which works fine but should be replaced with a better one. Holley Blue, tc
• I mounted a fuel pressure regulator in the engine bay, hich can be removed. It's up to you, ut nowhere near original. There are no modifications to the engine bay. It can all be returned to stock without needing to metal fab.

Please let me know if you have questions. If you live in the Orlando, lorida area, will be happy to take you for a spirited ride.
On Mar-06-16 at 17:20:14 PST, eller added the following information: