1986 Toyota 1/2 Ton Pickup Truck

1986 Toyota Pickup 1/2 Ton Description

Local pick-up only. This truck isn’t for everybody! It’s 30+ years old. It could be registered as a classic or an antique depending on your state. If you’re looking for a luxury vehicle or a truck that feels like you’re floating down the road on a fluffy cushion of air, you’re in the wrong place. My truck has had a few issues along the way, but there was never a week that went by that I didn’t get compliments and questions about it. I also got lots of offers to buy it! If this sounds like something you’re interested in, read on…

California truck!!! Cool, classic, clean Toyota pickup! Continue to restore it or keep as-is for hauling stuff, a daily driver, or just having fun on weekends.

Perfect for the DIY mechanic or anybody who wants to learn. As a bonus, I am including two repair manuals: the Official Factory Service Manual for trucks and 4Runners years 1984-1989, and How to Keep your Toyota Pickup Alive: Step by Step Procedures for the Complete Idiot for 1975-1987 2WD & 4WD. Both were purchased as downloads, so I’ll put them on a flash drive unless you request another format.

Repairs Done at Current Mileage (211,000)

· New oil pump

· New front main seal

· New valve cover gasket, half-moon seals (front & back), and grommets (will include Genuine Toyota gasket sealant remaining from this job, part #00295-00103)

· New radiator

· New upper & lower radiator hoses, and clamps

· New thermostat

· New power steering pump

· New power steering pressure hoses, supply/return hoses, and in-line filter

· New fuel filter

· New fuel hoses (pump to carb, supply/return to hard lines; hard lines to tank)

· New PCV valve and valve cover grommet

· New vacuum hoses (inc mixture control system, exhaust gas recirculation, hot air intake, choke breaker/opener, decel fuel cut, idle advance)

· New battery, cables & hold-down bracket

· New driver-side window regulator

· New spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, and oil/filter/gasket changed (done regularly)

Work Completed Before Current Mileage:

· New alternator at 209,000

· New 70,000 mile tires at 205,000

· New belts at 203,000

· New upholstery at 186,000

Known Issues:

· Hesitation on acceleration and it misses a little on idle. I don’t think there’s a vacuum leak as I replaced all the major vacuum lines except the brake assist, and it passed the troubleshooting for a brake vacuum leak, so I think the ignition timing or carb needs to be adjusted (I am including a brand new timing gun in case you want to DIY).

· It can take longer to start if it goes more than a few days without being started (this might be related to the issue above).

· The body repair of the driver-side front quarter panel needs to be completed. I pounded out most of the dent, sanded, primed, painted, and applied a couple of coats of clear coat, but it’s humid here and additional coats in dryer weather followed by buffing are what’s needed to make it shine. I am including some touch-up paint, primer, and clear coat (If there are any body repair guys out there, you’re welcome for the laughs!) – see photo

· The body repair of the tailgate. There are several small rust spots below the upper lip of the tailgate. There was a quarter-size rust spot above the handle that I sanded and revealed a small hole in the metal. I did my best to patch it after removing the rust, then primed, painted, and clear coated, but the paint isn’t an exact match despite the proper code and photos from the vendor of the exact color I needed. The area is also not smooth, but it’s enough to keep the rust from spreading at that spot. I am not a skilled body repair guy, obviously, so I decided to leave the rest rather than make more problems for the next owner – see photo

· There is some rust on the driver-side cab, between the door and the body – see photo

· The exhaust system has some rust – see photo

Despite the body rust I described above, I have not seen any rust on the frame. I included a photo of the underside where you can see the muffler and the frame as an example of what it looks like underneath (the leaf springs have some surface rust, which is to be expected)

· The driver-side outer tie rod bushing should be replaced. I purchased a replacement tie rod and will include it with the sale.

· The windshield molding on the driver’s-side bottom corner was never fully attached (see photo). It’s been like that as long as I’ve owned the truck and does not leak, but it should eventually be completely attached.

Vehicle History & Terms of Sale

I bought my truck from a friend in So Cal in Sept 2015 with 186,000 on it, then drove it cross country to start a job in Rhode Island. Note that RI does not issue titles for vehicles older than 2000; however, they issue a Title Law Letter (photo included) and documentation indicating ownership. You will get the Title Law Letter and documentation, along with a notarized Bill of Sale containing the vehicle year, make, model, odometer, VIN, date of sale and price, as well as buyer’s and seller’s names, addresses, driver’s license numbers/issuing state, expiration dates, and signature lines. I will cover the cost of the notary. You and I will both need to show valid driver’s licenses to the notary for verification in order to finalize the sale. Your bid indicates that you agree to comply with these terms.

Payment & Vehicle Pick-Up

· Cash payment only. No personal checks, cashier’s checks, money orders, etc.

· In-person payment and local pick-up only. Please see my requirements above regarding the notarized Bill of Sale.

· Existing CA plates will be removed prior to turning over the vehicle so I can return them to the DMV.

On Aug-06-18 at 19:18:03 PDT, seller added the following information:

BEFORE YOU BID:

· Bidders with a positive history only. No bidding history = contact me before bidding or I will cancel your bid

· Cash only

· Local vehicle pick-up only, which means that the person who picks it up will be listed as the buyer on the Bill of Sale that I'm submitted to the DMV

· Updates below include ignition timing checked, carb adjusted, and problem of hard starting and hesitation on acceleration fixed

California truck! Continue to restore it or keep as-is for hauling stuff, a daily driver, or just having fun on weekends. Perfect for the DIY mechanic or anybody who wants to learn. As a bonus, I am including two repair manuals: the Official Factory Service Manual for trucks and 4Runners years 1984-1989, and How to Keep your Toyota Pickup Alive: Step by Step Procedures for the Complete Idiot for 1975-1987 2WD & 4WD. Both were purchased as downloads, so I’ll put them on a flash drive unless you request another format.

Repairs Done at Current Mileage (211,000)

· New oil pump

· New front main seal

· New valve cover gasket, half-moon seals (front & back), and grommets (will include Genuine Toyota gasket sealant remaining from this job, part #00295-00103)

· New radiator

· New upper & lower radiator hoses, and clamps

· New thermostat

· New power steering pump

· New power steering pressure hoses, supply/return hoses, and in-line filter

· New fuel filter

· New fuel hoses (pump to carb, supply/return to hard lines; hard lines to tank)

· New PCV valve and valve cover grommet

· New vacuum hoses (inc mixture control system, exhaust gas recirculation, hot air intake, choke breaker/opener, decel fuel cut, idle advance)

· New battery, cables & hold-down bracket

· New driver-side window regulator

· New spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, and oil/filter/gasket changed (done regularly)

· UPDATE – Ignition timing checked and verified correct

· UPDATE – Carb adjusted

Work Completed Before Current Mileage:

· New alternator at 209,000

· New 70,000 mile tires at 205,000

· New belts at 203,000

· New upholstery at 186,000

Known Issues:

· FIXED! Hesitation on acceleration and it misses a little on idle. I don’t think there’s a vacuum leak as I replaced all the major vacuum lines except the brake assist, and it passed the troubleshooting for a brake vacuum leak, so I think the timing and carb needs to be adjusted (I am including a brand new timing gun in case you want to DIY). I am going to continue to attempt to fix this problem until the vehicle sells, so check back for updates.

· FIXED! It can take longer to start if it goes more than a few days without being started (this might be related to whatever is the issue above).

· The body repair of the driver-side front quarter panel needs to be completed. I pounded out most of the dent, sanded, primed, painted, and applied a couple of coats of clear coat, but it’s humid here and additional coats in dryer weather followed by buffing are what’s needed to make it shine. I am including some touch-up paint, primer, and clear coat (If there are any body repair guys out there, you’re welcome for the laughs!) – see photo

· The body repair of the tailgate. There are several small rust spots below the upper lip of the tailgate. There was a quarter-size rust spot above the handle that I sanded and revealed a small hole in the metal. I did my best to patch it after removing the rust, then primed, painted, and clear coated, but the paint isn’t an exact match despite the proper code and photos from the vendor of the exact color I needed. The area is also not smooth, but it’s enough to keep the rust from spreading at that spot. I am not a skilled body repair guy, obviously, so I decided to leave the rest rather than make more problems for the next owner – see photo

· There is some rust on the driver-side cab, between the door and the body – see photo

· The exhaust system has some rust – see photo

Despite the body rust I described above, I have not seen any rust on the frame. I included a photo of the underside where you can see the muffler and the frame as an example of what it looks like underneath (the leaf springs have some surface rust, which is to be expected)

· The driver-side outer tie rod bushing should be replaced. I purchased a replacement tie rod and will include it with the sale.

· The windshield molding on the driver’s-side bottom corner was never fully attached (see photo). It’s been like that as long as I’ve owned the truck and does not leak, but it should eventually be completely attached.

Vehicle History & Terms of Sale

I bought my truck from a friend in So Cal in Sept 2015 with 186,000 on it, then drove it cross country to start a job in Rhode Island. Note that RI does not issue titles for vehicles older than 2000; however, they issue a Title Law Letter (photo included) and documentation indicating ownership. You will get the Title Law Letter and documentation, along with a notarized Bill of Sale containing the vehicle year, make, model, odometer, VIN, date of sale and price, as well as buyer’s and seller’s names, addresses, driver’s license numbers/issuing state, expiration dates, and signature lines. I will cover the cost of the notary. You and I will both need to show valid driver’s licenses to the notary for verification in order to finalize the sale. Your bid indicates that you agree to comply with these terms.

Payment & Vehicle Pick-Up

· Cash payment only. No personal checks, cashier’s checks, money orders, etc.

· In-person payment and pick-up only. Please see my requirements above regarding the notarized Bill of Sale.

· Existing CA plates will be removed prior to turning over the vehicle so I can return them to the DMV.

· Per eBay rules, you will forfeit your deposit if you are unable to comply with these terms.