1962 VW Volkswagen Karmann Ghia

1962 Volkswagen Karmann Ghia Description

Overall, it is in fair to good condition;it's a mechanically well-kept car that drives great and looks great at 20 feet; not perfect but I think very presentable anddrive-able. Motor is not original to the car, but is of the original type (1200cc/40hp). It was a daily driver for a time before I moved to a hot climate...I am just not able to use it as much and it is time to sell it on.

A few videos:

Startup:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-Qlgpl23tk

Exterior driving:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySjjI0xkrBA

Interior driving:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-RQYqCTOss

The following is a list of the perfections/imperfections; please read carefully and ask me if you have any questions.

The Good: Runs and drives well. Extensive mechanical attentions in the last several years, including:
-Complete hydraulic brake rebuild with new or rebuilt components, including hard/soft lines, master/wheel cylinders, fluid reservoir, shoes, drums, hardware, etc.
-New shocks, tie rods, steering damper. New front/rear wheel bearings.
-New clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. New clutch cable and actuator arm. Pedal assembly has been rebuilt. New engine and transmission mounts (including the hard-to-get mount in front of the transaxle).
-Wiring has been replaced with a new harness. Electrical items replaced: dual horns, lights, relays, fuses. System is original 6v, but includes a correct-look retro radio that runs on 12v - a battery in the spare tire area runs this, along with a USB port and aux power outlet hidden in the glove box. (This system is solar charged and can be removed if not desired.)
-Engine accessories are new or rebuilt, including: generator, regulator, coil, wires, plugs, fuel pump, carburetor. Uses a Mallory single-point centrifugal distributor that I think works even better than the original vacuum style. New heater boxes and exhaust within the last six years.
-New rubber and weatherstripping, new windshield, all other glass is good. Rear pop-out windows are intact. NOTE: front/rear glass has seals with a channel for the trim option (trim not included).
-Coker wide whitewall tires, six years old and 10k miles.
-New floors (complete pans). Heater channels and wheel wells are great. Rockers are also good - one spot has a little rust starting to come through, but its an isolated spot, possibly fixable without any cutting or welding. The sill plate panels on the back of the front wheel wells were removed, inside metal was found to be solid, and the plates were re-installed with new weatherstripping. Since the interior photo, the e-brake handle has been painted and the shifter upgraded to a later-year type 1 style.

-Three-point seatbelt on the driver seat (other seats do not have belts)

My estimation of the imperfections:Right rear tail lens is cracked. 2nd gear can be difficult to shift into for the unpracticed, but it doesn’t grind or pop out and does drive fine. (I think its a shifter adjustment that is simply beyond my skills.) Paint has a decent shine to it, but has some age and is bubbling in a few spots. Usual dings here and there, some panel fitment would be in order (especially headlight rims), and the interior headliner has a folded crease (butnot torn) near the rear view mirror, and covers the dome light space. Rear view mirror is not correct for the car. It has fresh air heater boxes (replaced about four years ago), so the original heat knob in the cabin is not connected (although the cables are still there).One cylinder has a helicoil, but good compression. Fuel gauge and washers inop. The only major rust spot is on the passenger rear panel directly underneath the battery (see picture). Did not come to me with window scraper molding, so those are not installed (although the window scraper weatherstripping is). License plate lights inop. Park/taillight/signals can sometimes glitch if it its been sitting or if its humid, but they work. No dash pad. Pax seat slides on tracks but does not have a stop. When floors were replaced, jackpoints were not reinstalled (I jack it at the suspension hard points). Includes painted spare rim but no spare tire. I think one piece of engine tin is missing (behind shroud).

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The car is currently registered/insured and has a clear Louisiana title. Offers will be entertained since there is a little room there - I'm not really the wheel-and-deal type and the listed price is about what I'm looking to get out of it, but make me an offer and I'll do the deal if I can.

Inspection:I encourage in-person evaluations BEFORE you buy-it-now, in the interest of both parties knowing what they're getting. My due diligence as the seller is to make the information that I have available insofar as is possible and practical within the confines of the listing; your due diligence as the buyer is to make fully certain that you are satisfied with what you're getting before clicking buy-it-now. In all cases, the vehicle is sold at its present location in its present condition - no refunds.

Buying Rules: Buying-it-now (or making an offer and me accepting it) means that you bought it. A non-refundable $500 deposit via Paypal is due within 24 hours of buying-it-now or from the time I accept your offer; the balance is due in cashwithin ten (10) days of the sale. (I will accept a personal check only if I get it AND it clears within ten days of the sale.) The title does not change hands until the full balance has been received in cash, or if paying the balance by check, until the check has been received AND cleared.

Pickup:

Buyer is responsible for pickup. Louisiana requires in-state title transfers to be notarized; if that is your case, I can arrange to meet you at a notary. . : While the car is in drive-away shape, as soon as the title changes hands it is no longer road-legal since I have to take the tag off. My suggestion is to either trailer it out OR if you are a Louisiana resident and want to drive it away, I would recommend that you pre-arrange insurance coverage, we meet at a local title company (I don't do DMV), and you can get a registration and tag to drive it away. (You're responsible for the fees).

Thanks for looking - as mentioned above, please let me know if you would like more information and I will do my best to provide it!

Cheers,

David