1970 Plymouth Cuda 383 with A21 code rubber bumper option, needs restoration

1970 Plymouth Barracuda Cuda Description

For sale is my 1970 Plymouth Cuda - rubber bumper big block car!
I purchased this car last year like the old story goes - with every intent of doing it justice and doing a full rotisserie restoration due to rarity of the rubber bumper group.
However, I have been doing just such a restoration on my other car - a 1971 440 six pack Superbee and its taking a lot more time and money to finish than I originally expected.So, I have decided to let the Cuda go, since it is becoming clear its going to be quite some time before I can get to it.This car has a lot of potential and when finished would command a nice price.
It is loaded with options, here is how the fender tag breaks downE63 - 383 HP 4 barrelD32 - HD 727 AutomaticBS23 - Plymouth Barracuda, Special (Cuda), 2 door hardtopEF8 - Dark Green Metallic PaintH6X9 - High grade vinyl black bucket seatsA21 - Elastromeric Color Front Bumper GroupA31 - 3.91:1 High Performance Axle GroupA62 - Rallye Instrument ClusterC16 - Console w BucketsC55 - Bucket SeatsG36 Left hand remote, right hand outside manual mirrorsJ45 - Hood Tie Down PinsJ54 - Sport HoodM21 - Roof Drip Rail MoldingsM25 - Wide Sill MoldingM31 - Belt MoldingM88 - Quarter panel tape treatmentN41 - Dual ExhaustN42 - Chrome Exhaust TipsN85 - TachometerR11 - Music Master AM radio
The car obviously needs total restoration but the good:The hood is cleanThe rockers are cleanFront frame rails are clean
Both doors - with the original VIN sticker are cleanBoth front door panels are really niceBoth tail lights are very nice with mint lensesThe grille is really nice with the chrome trim and no cracks that I have seenThe glass except the windshield is all there and very clear.

The Bad:It needs both front fendersBoth rear quarters need work or replacement
Trunk pan needs to be replaced
Drivers side floor pan repairs
To go with the sale of the car:I noticed some thin spots at the very rear of the rear frame rails near the tail panel so I purchased two replacement rear frame rails in case I had decided to do some repairs.
I also have a wheel houseAn extra dash metal frameBoth trunk extensionsA right side quarter skinAn extra K frame because the one in it has some rust

My loss is your gainI have a date correct 383HP engine to go with the car - the engine is out of the car and needs to be rebuilt but it is correct for the car.The engine is complete, but needs total rebuild - its been sitting a long time partially disassembled.The codes on the pad are
F38312 19HPand the casting date is 10-23-69I also have a correct HD727 transmission within a few months of the vehicle build and it was rebuilt before i got itAll of the chrome trim is in the car
The gauges in the car are the standard gauges but the car is coded for Rallye gauges. That's how I purchased the car.
I recently purchased a set of rallye gauges off ebay for this project and may be convinced to throw them in to the sale.

This is a great opportunity to get in on the ground floor of a car that will be not only gorgeous when done but will be worth north of 50k, so even with putting 30 grand into making this a show car you would still come out ahead and it shouldn't need that kind of money.
Good luck and happy bidding!
Note:I am not a business, not one of these car flippers, just a regular guy selling his personal car that is registered in his name.It is a used car needing total restoration so it is being sold in as-is condition with no warranties expressed nor implied.Please contact me with any questions prior to bidding, as bidding is an intent to purchaseA $500 non-refundable deposit is required upon auction completion by the winning bidderSorry but I have been burned more than once by people who think this is a game - listings cost money
Just to repeat for the multiple people asking if the car can be driven - the engine and transmission are out of the car to be rebuilt - they need to be rebuiltThe car needs total restoration - there are rust repairs needed in multiple spots - some minor and some not so minor.If you don't have the ability to do the work or know someone who can, then buy one done - restorations are expensive, time consuming and almost always end up being much more than you expected. I say this to be honest and realistic and as someone who has restored cars worse than this. If you want a great project - one that is a REAL Cuda not a clone, then this is for you. If you are not realistic about what these cars cost due to their low production numbers and what it will cost to bring it back to life, then buy a Camaro or Mustang - they are much cheaper.if you have any questions, want more photos, anything, I am more than glad to help - I want this car to go to a good home and a buyer to be thrilled they got a real Cuda to work on.
Good luck and happy bidding

On Jun-10-18 at 13:08:00 PDT, seller added the following information: