1974 Pymouth Valiant Scamp, factory 318 disc brakes AC car

1974 Plymouth Other Description

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Summary1974 Plymouth Valiant Scamp, factory option 318, disc brakes, AC car.Clean and clear title. Daily driver project car -lots of work done but needs more work. Inspected and registered. This car easily gets thumbs up and 'nice car' yelled by passers by.
Body/PaintThis car was from the factory white with a gold vinyl top, gold interior. When we bought it, it had been repainted blue with no vinyl top and custom black interior.
The car has been in Texas all its life, so rust is not structural - but has impacted the lower rear quarters (where water goes down the trunk like all these old cars), The passenger rear window lower corner, the trunk hinge support, the passenger-side front windshield lower corner, and the passenger front floor board (where water enters the passenger front window corner). The trunk floor has 6 or so rust holes but is structurally sound. There is surface rust throughout.
The k-frame supporting the engine looks ok but is a little bit beat up. The oil pan has a dent in it which is consistent with the banging that the k-frame must have gotten on the old country roads where it came from. Otherwise, it is fine as is. The unibody boxes are clean and in good shape. (All these old cars benefit from k-frame restoration and modification to increase the rigidity of the unit and to support higher HP - but that is time consuming and costly.)
New front windshield, new windshield gasket - but leaks in the corners as it wasn't installed properly.
The goal was to get the car painted quickly as my neighbors were annoyed with the car. It is presentable. Painted in factory Sherwood Green. The paint was applied over previous paint with mostly good results. Prep could have been much better and has separated around trunk lip (can see when you open the trunk) and some bubbling where the bondo was applied). In areas where the body/paint wasn't prepped well (trunk lip under lid, under hood), the new paint has chipped or peeled off. This is largely not visible externally. I have a small amount of leftover paint from the paint guy. There is some bubbling where bondo was used - I tried to convince the body guys to use aluminized filler but they ignored me. The factory has a weld seam at the roof rear quarter that needs to be filled with a metal filler, and if not then you get bubbling there.
Engine318 (prior owner rebuilt, unknown details, but assume stock). I would assume it has a stock grind and as it has never pinged on regular unleaded, the stock compression. We upgraded the sickly stock 2bbl with an Edelbrock LD40 (Performer) intake and 600CFM carb, using a Holley fuel pump and pressure regulator - it is easy on gas and more reliable. Factory AC compressor spins freely, kicks in when AC is enabled - but we have not worked on this, assume it needs work. Heater works well. Replaced power steering pump and hoses when we replaced power steering box. New exhaust manifold gasket on drivers side when we replaced steering box. Some new hoses and belts.
Car starts up well. I think the pushrod seals have a slight leak as it -sometimes- puff/smokes on startup when hot after having been driving and then parked. When it is cold - no smoke. Faint lifter tick but I know there is also an exhaust leak on passenger side. As well, there are other minor leaks that are annoying - you'll have to chase these down. These types of things may or may not self-repair if the car was driven more (only drive around the neighborhood once a month).
I have driven this car on the highway for long distances and would do so without concerns. However, NO WARRANTY IS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED.
Car runs on the cool side. New thermostat installed. No pinging. I would like the timing to be a bit more advanced at full throttle but it behaves like a stock motor so not complaining.
The dual exhaust with glass packs is as we purchased the car. It is ok. The engine would prefer more back pressure and a cross-over pipe. Otherwise, it works and sounds great, and is the last on the list of things to do.
TransmissionThis is a light duty transmission (904) but they take abuse and I have a kit and new pan/gasket set to install. Not sure of the history - so consider it as-is. I have shift linkage set a little 'late' so that I don't put too much stress on the internals. Some tweaking is still needed.
The rear-end should get flushed and cleaned. I do not know the condition of the internals or u-joints, carriers, etc. I don't foresee any problems, however NO WARRANTY IS EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED.
ElectricalNew Powermaster (stock-appearance) one wire alternator + heavy power wire down to starter solenoid. We converted the stock ignition to GM HEI (with power relay to protect ignition switch) but retaining the stock distributor. New main power wires with correct fusible links run from starter relay to dash power (called a fleet bypass in the 70s). Lots of wiring work and time/effort here - pulled/clean fusible link and firewall connectors, redid wiring wherever I could see problem wiring. Headlight relays provide much brighter headlights. Improved grounds in the engine bay for proper charging. A casual observer will only see a stock setup.
New NOS mopar ignition switch. Replaced turn signal switch with used OG part that sometimes doesn't cancel. For some reason, the power to the dash 'dips' when moving selector through Neutral, may be a safety switch (only causes radio to reset). Doesn't cause any other discernible problems (and believe me, if it did I would fix it).
I spent quite a bit of time on the wipers trying to improve them - pulled and cleaned motor, replaced wiper linkage bushings and switch. The wipers don't park correctly unless you time it just right. It may be that I need a different type of switch - but don't know. They work and passed inspection.
We replaced the dash panel with a 1972 unit that is better in appearance, but does not have the 1974 seat belt warning light. I cleaned everything behind the panel - replaced headlight switch. I lubed and installed new speedometer cable. Speedo works well but obviously the mileage is not accurate. I have the original dash panel.
The Ammeter gauge has been bypassed when I did the 'fleet bypass' which is a era-correct method of providing more consistent power to the dash for commercial vehicles. A new owner can take on the challenge of putting in a volt meter where the Ammeter is now.
I pulled all fuses and cleaned the fuse box and connectors. I cleaned the horn relay and put in a new horn. Checked, cleaned, tested the wiring and connectors so all is good now.
Mopar electricals have been the most frustrating of my many automotive experiences, but I feel that I have most of the issues resolved and out of the way. I have learned my lesson and use high quality connectors and dielectric grease on all electrical connections when possible.
SuspensionNew PST tubular Upper A arms with delrin bushings. Rebuilt factory sway bar lower control arms with new bushings. Upgraded PST tie rods, T/A style faster idler arm, PST indexed 1.03" torsion bars and new bushings. Rebuilt Mopar Police steering box for a slightly firmer road feel and quicker ratio. New Monroe shocks. Delrin bushings squeak a bit when they are cold.
Have Helwig tubular front and rear anti-sway bars to install (come with vehicle). As is, car is comfortable and loves to take corners. Not many of these old cars do so it is surprising when you enter a corner and the Scamp says it wants to go faster.
Factory front disc brakes have not been touched as they work well. I am including new high quality flexible lines for front and rear. This is my next item to work on if this car doesn't sell - not that it needs it, just that now that the car is fast, the car needs to stop and I haven't looked at the calipers, pads, etc.
Rear factory 4 leaf rear springs, new Monroe coil overs (I followed the advice of a mopar guy who liked the stance, but I would prefer going back to a lower profile). I am including new heavier duty rear leaf springs if you want them. I would like to replace the coil-overs as they are too bouncy for me on our neighborhood streets which have lots of bumps and holes. This is another item that I'll likely tackle if this car doesn't sell.
This car uses the wider standard 5 bolt pattern. Chrome wheels are just ok. New tires 195/65. I have factory 15x7 police rims and dog dish hubcaps. As the tires are new, I've been avoiding the expense of putting in beefier 235's on the rear - but that would really awesome. I am not including the rims and hubcaps in this sale.
InteriorPrior owner recovered seats and door panels in a custom black cloth and alligator pattern. Custom Scamp molded headliner. Non-smoking car so smells ok. Carpet is ok but needs cleaning. We installed new 3 point seatbelt with inertia reels. New Kenwood car stereo with (2) kicker front dash speakers (custom speaker mount) and 6x9 rear speakers. Good sounding stereo.
Aftermarket steering wheel is ok. The dash has (prior owner) been cut on to fit in a larger stereo - but you can't tell. Glove compartment needs re-fitting (I would like to take one last look behind the dash before doing that).
Interior is a combination of square-weave fabric and faux-gator skin. The headliner has an embossed Scamp logo. Backseat has a Scamp logo in the backrest. The door panels are also the custom cloth interior. Some of the plastic bits and pieces have degraded over time and need replacing.
Side glass has old tint that needs to be removed.
PartsI am including many parts that you can use or sell. I would value the parts at $1000+.
VideoI have created a video on YouTube of this Scamp. Search on '1974 Plymouth Scamp 318 eBay 201723268080'. I will cover the car in much greater detail in the video. If you can't find the video, please let me know.
If you are considering the purchase of this carPurchased this car about 4 years ago on eBay for too much - car was not described fully and although seller said he was a Christian he obviously was more interested in money. I'm more honest than that - see my positive feedback # as evidence.
When we picked up the car, and literally we had a blow out as we pulled into Discount Tire. After we got the new tires, the very next corner we had an electrical issue and the car cut out. Some nice guys in a Studebaker helped us out of the intersection.
Since then, my older son and I put a lot of money and effort into the Scamp to get it this far. My son is now off to college and after a year there decided to buy another project - and so this one needs to go.
Although we have upgraded a number of items on this car, it is still a project and is imperfect and has quirks. Runs, drives, stops - just needs time and work.
I want to emphasize that this is a project car - much better than when we bought it, but still needs time and money. I also want to note that although this is a factory 318 car - we don't have the option plate anymore (though we have the numbers). The paint guys lost it. I'm including numbers below.
No regrets please. Your deposit is nonrefundable whether or not you choose to buy the car. I expect you to buy it - but I just want to be upfront that I need to pay for the listing if you do not pay and that's the way I need to do it.
Last note. I have had people buy it now - then show up and try to talk me down in price. That's not the way it works. You pay what you bid - and if you use the Buy It Now - you pay what you agree to pay. I have to pay a sellers fee based on the sales price, and if you pay me less, then that's not fair.

We copied the following from the option plate before we lost it.

VH23: Plymouth Valiant,Duster,

High 2 Door Hardtop

G4G: 318 150HP(net) or 170HP(net) 1-2BBL 8 CYL

1974 St. Louis, MO, USA

268514:Sequence number

E44:318 cid 2 barrel V8 230hp

D34:Light Duty Automatic Transmission

HL4:Parchment Exterior Color

E2Y3:Trim - Unknown, Vinyl Bench Seat, Gold

000:Full Door Panels

620:Build Date: June 20

561400:Order number

V1L:Full Vinyl Top, Champagne

U:USA Specifications

B41:Front Disc Brakes w/Standard 10in RR Drum

G52:Remote left hand chrome outside mirror

H51:Air Conditioning with Heater

J25:3 Speed Wipers

L31:Hood/Fender Mounted Turn Signals

M21:Roof drip rail moldings

M25:Wide sill moldings

M26:Wheel Lip Moldings

M38:Decklid Finish Panel Moldings

R11:Radio Solid State AM (2 Watts)

V5X:Body Side Stripes, Black

26:26in Radiator

END:End of Sales Codes